Chicago is a city of neighborhoods. That’s what sets this city apart from all the rest: 77 neighborhoods, each with a distinct feel, a distinct style. And while Evanston does have a distinct feel – white, lackluster, pretentious and overpriced – as well as a distinct style – crass consumerism and whatever the latest trends are – Evanston doesn’t make the cut. It’s officially the first suburb to the north. And gets treated as such.
The gates to the city close at 1 or 2 a.m. to keep out the riff-raff, which means there is no public transportation unless it’s to an early dinner with Grandma or out with that underage-curfew-abiding girl you picked up the previous week.
Whatever your means of transportation, there are certain areas downtown that you should know about within a few months of enrolling at Northwestern. This is a short list – only the most essential made the cut – but I encourage you to visit as many of the neighborhoods as you can. It is, of course, biased; but when you write the article next year, put whatever you want in. You can claim the suburb of Skokie with its pathetic strip malls the hippest nearby hangout.
LAKEVIEW
The Stops: Red line to Addison or Belmont.
The Scene: This is a large neighborhood and depending on where you go, you’re going to find a different group of people with different senses of style. But no matter where you are in Lakeview – as long as you’re not lighting pride flags or bashing the goth/emo look – you should feel accepted.
The Sights: Ditch a class and catch an afternoon baseball game at Wrigley Field. Leave your White or Red Sox paraphernalia in the dorm. Snicker at the multitude of sex shops, watch a drag show and then get something pierced at The Alley, a store at the Belmont and Clark intersection that features an entire room of leather outfits.
THE LOOP
The Stops: Any train will get you there eventually. The best, though, would be to take the Red Line. It neatly bisects the Loop, so get off between State/Lake and Jackson to explore.
The Scene: The area real Chicagoans are referencing when they say ‘downtown.’ Named for the shape the El tracks make around the area, the Loop is the second most significant financial district in the U.S. after Wall Street; all of the suits will remind you of that. The Loop is bordered by the Chicago River on the north and west side, Michigan on the east and Roosevelt to the south.
The Sights: Know the area, go to see the structures that started and continue to influence what is modern architecture, but don’t expect there to be anything after business hours. Most restaurants and shops close a few hours after the 5 p.m. rush to catch the trains. On weekends, the sidewalks are home to lost and starry-eyed tourists who can’t find Michigan Avenue.
WICKER PARK
The Stops: Blue line to Damen or Western.
The Scene: Yes, this is where they filmed the Chicago season of ‘The Real World.’ No, you shouldn’t bring that up when you go there. Once known as the artist’s haven of the city’s northwest side, Wicker Park – while it still maintains some of that creative vibe – has slowly turned into the neighborhood filled with people who want to live among the artists and who wish they had been on MTV. Don your overpriced Urban Outfitters printed tee, squeeze your junk into some carefully-ripped jeans and slide the checkered vans on to fit into this very meticulously constructed hipster enclave and nobody will give you a second look. Because it’s not cool to notice.
The Sights: Stop by Blue Fin for a hip sushi meal or Earwax, a hipster café filled with bright colors, unusually healthy food choices and an eccentric staff. Pick up something from Quimby’s Bookstore, which stocks publications you won’t find anywhere else alongside a heavy supply of counterculture and cult writers and illustrators. When night falls, you’ll want to check out Subterranean or the Double Door, two of Chicago’s premier music venues for people who still know how to rock.
THE ETHNIC COMMUNITIES
They are one of the reasons Chicago, despite it’s Midwestern charm and friendly citizens, is still considered one of the most segregated major cities in the country: the ethnic communities. The structure of the city has kept many people within walking distance of where their parents and grandparents settled. This is slowly changing; however, the positive side has been maintained: in these areas you can experience new culture through people food, shops and fashion. My favorites:
Chinatown/New Chinatown: Red line to Cermak-Chinatown/Red line to Argyle. The best maintained of the ethnic communities, Chinatown is a hot spot for tourists looking to experience Chinese restaurants, shops, artwork and architecture. Home to thousands of people with Southeast Asian heritage, New Chinatown boasts several Thai, Laotian and Vietnamese restaurants.
Devon: Red line to Loyola. Travel eastward from the lake along Devon Avenue and you will pass through, consecutively, a Bangladeshi community, a Pakistani community, an Indian community, a Russian-American community and an Orthodox Jewish community.
Pilsen: Blue or Pink line to Damen or 18th. The largest Latino community in the city, Pilsen has been the heart of Chicago’s muralist movement for several decades.
Greektown: Blue line to UIC-Halsted. Small community on the Near West Side made up, mostly, of Greek restaurants and bars. Greektown is also home to a small cultural museum and annual parade.
Little Italy/Heart of Italy: Blue line to Polk/Blue Line to Damen. Two well-known communities in Chicago, both host to incredible Italian fare. Check out the awe-inspiring, turn-of-the-century Roman Catholic churches as well as the National Italian American Sports Hall of Fame.
NICHOLAS JACKSON: I read a press release that mentioned your band living in tiny cramped quarters plastered with show flyers and guitar strings. It said the six of you share van space, food, clothes, etc. ‘more readily than most people share oxygen.’ I understand this is a nice picture to paint for an audience that likes to read about that kind of thing but I’m interested to hear your own perspective on the dynamics of the band — on a more personal level. Do tell.